Bringing your kitten home
We suggest you set up his/her food, fresh water, toys, cat tree and clean litterbox in a room isolated from other pets/people. We recommend this "Isolation" period last for 2 weeks (14 days). It is important that your kitten is given adequate time to settle into his/her new home/surrounding before being introduced to other household pets and people. After your kitten has become comfortable around you and your family, we recommend slowly introducing him/her to your other household pets, people and other rooms (this time frame varies depending on individual cat/kitten). Please supervise all visits until you are certain your kitten is safe and comfortable.
Your kitten will come litterbox trained but be aware there will be a transition period in which the kitten must become use to your home and their new environment so do anticipate a little retraining. Keeping the initial living space small (bedroom, bathroom, etc) and litterboxes close will help facilitate. For litter we use pine pellets, you can buy a 40 lb bag from either Chewy or tractor supply plus.
We feed a raw diet that we order from grasslandbeef.com. If you do not feel comfortable with feeding a raw diet there is Stella & Chewy freeze dried raw which you just add warm water to. (They are made within the U.S.A) but if you do choose to feed your kitten different food, please introduce new food slowly, and mixed with current food, you should expect a short period of loose stools while the kitten’s digestive tract becomes familiar with the new food. If you decide to feed dry food please make sure your kitten has access to plenty of fresh water, we use a water fountain- We recommend drinkwell and or pioneer pet products. The links below is just one of their products, that we have and we highly recommend it, it is easy to clean and maintain.
Your kitten will be used to being handled (picked up, held, cuddled, played with, claws being trimmed, paws and ears being played with, belly rubs, etc) and being in a home environment with children and dogs but please do expect your kitten to be initially cautious or timid in his/her new environment. Given time and space and plenty of your attention, your kitten’s natural curiosity should eventually lead him/her to explore your home and become comfortable. This transition time period is different for every kitten.
Things that can happen and to expect-
*diarrhea * lots of meowing/crying * not eating/drinking for up to 24 hours * (If the diarrhea and not eating and drinking lasts longer than 24 hours please give us a call.) * curiosity * Hiding/be scared*
Amputating your Bengal's last toe joints (declawing) is unnecessary. A nice large sisal rope cat tree and cat scratchers will be much more enticing for your Bengal to climb and scratch than your furniture. Declawing your cat may cause it to feel defenseless and turn to biting, behavioral problems and litter box problems . We clip our kittens' nails from an early age to make it easier for you to continue to do so. Do not use your hands or feet as toys for your Bengal because they will then treat them as such. Declawing is illegal or considered inhumane in many countries around the world and many U.S States are passing laws making it illegal. Surgery is never an appropriate method for changing a natural behavior. Having leather couches or not wanting to provide a cat tree is not a reason to alter your cats body. If your home is not suitable for a pet, it is not ethical to surgically change the animal to suit your furnishings or lifestyle. Tall sisal rope scratching posts, cat trees and vertical cardboard scratchers (I have made my own out of shoe and other boxes) are much more enticing to your cats than leather or cloth. You can also buy a product called "soft claws".
Vaccines and Deworming
I will have dewormed all kittens at least two full rounds before sending them home with you. We do this because young kittens are more susceptible to ingesting parasites. Small intestinal parasites can be brought in from the mud on your shoes, or from other pets that go outdoors, such as dogs. A hard, swollen belly, vomiting and diarrhea are symptoms that need a fecal test (PCR) and an appropriate dewormer.
I have vaccinated all kittens with two FVRCP vaccines (these are the kitten vaccines which they need three of). Please also create a vaccination schedule with your vet. Kittens may also be vaccinated for rabies when they are of age PLEASE NOTE: there have been some Bengal kittens that have had a bad reaction to the rabies vaccine. (check your local laws for age). Other vaccines are mostly for diseases that are only transmitted between cats. Since you are not letting your cat outdoors to mingle with the neighborhood strays, or if you don't have an indoor/outdoor cat, you do not need these other vaccines. A good vet will vaccinate based on exposure, not based on how many vaccines he/she can possibly give to your cat and charge you for. I do not recommend vaccinating indoor cats for Feline Leukemia. Feline Leukemia can only be transmitted from bodily fluids of another cat, and some Bengals have had neurological reactions to this vaccine (seizures). I follow the chart below. Please read through my contract carefully, as there is a clause that states if you give certain vaccines it will void the health guarantee completely .
Spay and Neuter
Even though we are new to breeding we have been counseled by other seasoned breeders who now are spaying and neutering their kittens and have suggested that we do the same. So with that being said your kitten will be spayed/neutered before it leaves our home, there are no exceptions to this so please do not ask. The price of the spay/neuter is in the price of your kitten. Your Kitten will be released to you at 12-16 weeks of age. We do not sell breeding cats.
You may have seen/heard that Ketamine is unsafe for bengals-please talk to your vet about this, the only safe sedative is one that your vet is accustom to using.
Poisonous plants should be removed from the home to prevent ingestion. Lilies are very dangerous, ingesting even a small amount of plant matter can cause kidney failure and even death. Easter lilies, Asian lilies and Red lilies are all poisonous. Azaleas and Rhododendrons are poisonous and deadly to cats. Oleanders can kill cats if a moderate amount is ingested, as can English yew. Tulip and daffodil bulbs, Sago palm, castor bean plants and cyclamens are all poisonous. Mistletoe can cause cardiovascular collapse in cats.
Fragile valuables can be secured with Museum Gel. Close dog doors or attach a kennel to the inside portion of the dog door so your cat can not escape.